14 Comments

When my Dad hit some success back in the 70s he did as many other did and still do, purchased a Rolex. He put the dressy Seiko he wore in Vietnam in a drawer and wore his gold Presidential for the next twenty years, and I can't ever recall it being off his wrist. He'd go to work with it on, landscape, oil changes, fix our broken bike chains, scuba dive, swim in the pools and oceans on vacation... everything. I think it's because of this that I don't ever shy away from wearing my watches for anything and everything. They're made to be worn, and they can take a beating. There's nothing cooler than seeing someone with a beat to hell dress watch on their wrist. Great write up as usual, Heaton!

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I understand the attitude, I mirror it when it comes to tool watches. See, for growing up in the 90s and 2000s, it was difficult not to embrace smartwatches as a gym instrument or a wrist diving computer for scuba. As such, "rough" luxury watches always seemed like an oxymoron for me. It took some time - and some new sports such as yacht sailing - to embrace the idea of an analogue, less functional function watch. To embrace their slower pace. Appreciate their history.

A dress watch, on the other hand, was always useful, never questioned. Something worn with a suit, useufl in a way a tie or a cufflink is. And since I work in diplomacy the least formal thing I wear Monday to Friday (or used to before the pandemic...) is a blazer. Hence, the dress watch is entirely functional to me.

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Jason, these are interesting thoughts and thanks for another great read. I wonder if there is some sartorial author out there pondering the notion of wearing a tool watch for a while. One can imagine the comments from his friends, "A tool watch? The horror!" It does beg the question, if a dress watch can be worn cutting the grass, then why can't a tool watch be worn to a dress occasion? I would not suggest wearing an SKX007 to the Oscars but a Sub is a tool watch and it looks great with a suit. Cheers!

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I've always enjoyed seeing Bradley Cooper sport his Big Pilot at the Oscars, or even Sam Rockwell and his GMT Master.

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Agreed, some rules are meant to be broken!

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Jason, great article and something relevant to what I am pondering. My Breitling Endurance Pro is a watch that feels best for Friday to Sunday for weekend play. A watch that says go go go when running on the trails. I am starting to consider a desk watch as an IT professional. I am definitely not a pink shirt guy like you and feel better in greys and blues. And I do not want to make a big investment into a so-called dress watch. I tried on a Seiko Presage SPB095 and a Longines Heritage recently which I feel the Seiko is a contender based on pricing criteria as I do not want to spend more than $1,500 on a dress watch. Very excited to hear about your experiences on the anOrdain Model One on TGN. Great article Jason! Thank you!

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Seiko SARB 033 and 035 are discontinued, but available on ebay. One of these, with a good quality leather strap, would work, at a combined cost that is reasonable (say, $500 plus or minus).

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Just looked around on ebay. The SARB033 (black dial) has increased in price on the secondary market in the last year. Still a classic look on high quality leather straps.

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I’m in the same boat. The ‘dressiest’ watch I own is a mid-size 36mm Omega Seamaster Professional. To me, it’s the epitome of a dress diver. Had I not become enamored with NATO straps, the bracelet that watch came on functions as a near perfect go between for sporty and dressy. Wear that anOrdain in good health!

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In the 21st century are't all mechanical watches dress watches, or at the very least pieces of jewellery? Personally whenever I'm doing something hazardous; on or in water, cycling, yard work or even cooking I tend to take off my mechanicals and switch to a G-Shock or Garmin if I need a watch.

Having said that I don't have and watches that are out-and-out dress watches. If I had to dress up, which fortunately is an extremely rare occurrence, I'd wear a dressy dive such as my BB58 or even something idiosyncratic like my Meistersinger...

I do like what anOrdain are doing, particularly their dials and the option to customise the caseback with a map extract.

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I would have to agree with you. To me most mechanical watches are considered dress now. I do not move in the social circles that require formal dress often let alone a dress watch. In a dress situation, it is the watch that I has sentiment attached to that I reach for.

The unanswered question Jason is what did you wear previouslywear for formal dress and more interestingly, how did you justify it to yourself?

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Great read as always Jason. As a watch-loving Scot who’s been on the lookout for a dress watch for a while.. and kinda liked Nomos but found them a bit refined.. that anOrdain is absolutely perfect.

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Amazing and very useful article Jason, please keep us updated about your progress because I have the same issue. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this importante watch enthusiasts topic. Stay healthy and warm

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:)

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